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Rain, Snow, or Shine: Day Hiking Nikko, Japan

3/29/2018

We enjoyed two scenic mid-March days in Nikko in the Nippon region of Japan. Off-season here allowed for a truly uncrowded and splendid winter wonderland. The emerging buds on the cherry trees promised change in the weeks to follow.

Our first day was spent on the Tobu bus line with a hop-on, hop-off ticket to Sambonmatsu, where we started our day gazing out on the expansive snow-covered Senjogahara Moor. The area boasts top cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing, with rental shops at the Sambommatsu bus stop. We opted for sunny road-side walking due to our clothing choices for the day! For lunch we stopped for a tea and dumpling set at Ryuzu No Taki waterfalls after a short hike to the top of the falls and back. To round out our sightseeing for the day we wandered around pristine Lake Chuzenji and took the late afternoon bus winding down the dramatic mountain switchbacks to Nikko.

Our second day we ambitiously started with a copy of the Nikko Historical Walking Map to tackle first the Takino’o path and then one half of the the Kanman Path Loop, each approximately 5 KM loops. Unless you are a crack-of-dawn kind of person, there is far too much to see in these areas in a single day, so be prepared for a two day journey or concessions on seeing ALL the World Heritage sights. On the Takino’o Path we first visited the Rinnoji Temple and Taiyuin Temple (800 Yen ticket.) Heading further into the forest of old growth conifer trees, we realized the depth of spectacular free temples and landmarks there were to see. In a steady rain, we had the area nearly to ourselves. I love hiking in the rain. But waterfalls AND rain together-even better!

On the Kanman Path, the sky opened up, and we gingerly walked through the mud past the 74 stone statues of Jizo (Buddhist Guardian Deity, carved in the 1500’s!) and the dramatic Kanman-Ga-Fuchi Abyss, an area of the Kaiya River formed by lava from Mt. Nantai. After a total of about 8 KM we arrived wet and weary at the Yashi-No-Yu Onsen (hot spring) to soak the day away! What a great stop and full of amenities, including a stellar massage chair to write home about! We took the easy public bus back to town, relaxed and ready for sleep after two fully satisfying days of Nikko sights.

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NZ North Island: 10 Top Spots in Two Weeks

3/3/2018

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Thinking of touring the North Island of New Zealand? We had a stellar time camping and cruising beautiful NZ in February. It’s hard to believe how much we saw in just two weeks! Renting a car or campervan is definitely the way to go. We tent camped, but having a campervan offers even more glamping options in Kiwi land. Check out our stops below, in order of our travel path!

1. Waiheke Island: Take a day trip or spend a few nights on this popular island just 30 minutes by ferry from the city of Auckland. With more than 30 wineries and an extensive network of hiking trails, Waiheke makes for one glamorous trekking destination! Get more details in my Waiheke Island Blog.

2. Bay of Islands and Ngawha Hot Springs: Heading north from Auckland, the Bay of Islands is a not-to-be missed destination. One caveat...if you can’t see any of the 144 islands due to heavy rain and fog (as we experienced) it’s a bit of a wasted stop! I hope you have better luck. Fortunately, we met some wonderful locals that directed us west (toward Kaikohe town) to the amazing Ngawha Hot Springs (pronounced “Naafa”) for a much-needed soak in volcanic pools. For just $4.00 admission, this stop recharged our cold, damp spirits. As the rain pitter-pattered upon our heads we enjoyed the rustic pools, each containing a different mineral makeup and temperature. Travel Tip: Wear an old bathing suit or something you’re willing to sacrifice to the sulphuric smell of the healing waters - or wash your suit with detergent shortly after your soak!

3. Hokianga Harbour and the Ancient Kauri Forest: The neighboring towns of Opononi and Omapere on the Hokianga Harbour are a remote and peaceful community with mind-blowing ocean scenery and forest hikes. A nice selection of hotels are available. We stayed in a sweet and affordable private room at Globe Trekker’s Lodge. Between heavy rains we had an ideal day of hiking through the ancient Kauri forest of Waipoua. These awe-inspiring Kauri trees are over 2,000 years old! Don’t miss Te Matua Ngahere and Tane Mahuta, the two single largest trees in New Zealand.

4. Far Northland: Cape Reinga and Sandboarding: From Kaitaia, we made the final push North with a stop for ridiculously fun sand boarding at the Te Paki Giant Sand Dunes. We rented a boogie-board for $15 at the base of the dunes (but wish we had just bought one for $20 back at The Warehouse in Kaitaia!) An hour before sunset we rolled into our Department of Conservation campsite at Tapotupotu, just three km south of Cape Reinga, for a dip in the ocean and a much-needed shower! Then up to Cape Reinga for a picnic dinner on the bluffs at sunset. We returned the next morning with coffee for sunrise at this powerful meeting place of the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea. Travel Tip: If time allows, hike the 5 km from Tapotupotu camp up the Te Paki Coastal Track to the Cape (instead of driving) for the ultimate sunset arrival. Bring headlamps for the return journey and hope for a full moon! Also, there is no drinking water at Tapotupotu camp, so bring filtering or boiling equipment!

5. Coramandel Penninsula: Hot Water Beach Arriving at sunset and low tide (yippeee!) we had a number of pools that visitors had built up through the day! Don’t forget a shovel or pail, as sand is always backfilling. I was very content with the shallow but truly hot water, just perfect for lounging in and appreciating the sunset! The Top 10 Holiday Park next door has glamping tents and cool cabins for rent, or just pitch a good ‘ole tent!

6. Coramandel Penninsula: New Chums Beach. Ahhh, this idyllic stretch of beach is the perfect spot for sunbathing where the jungle meets the sea. The short hike hugging the coastline might take just 20 minutes on a dry day, but the combo of slippery rocks and slick exposed mud slopes make for a treacherous path following a rain. I did some serious barefoot slip ‘n sliding! Use a walking stick whenever possible. The swimming was fantastic and there was a decent surf break. The walk-in access keeps the crowds slim. Josh collected several canteens full of fresh clams we enjoyed for dinner, steamed with butter and white wine!

7. Waitomo Glow Worm Caves This was one of the more entertaining and unique stops we had! We chose Blackwater Rafting Company to get the full in-water, underground tubing experience. It was pure magic! For accommodation, check out Waitomo Hilltop Glamping for a perfect getaway of adventure and relaxation above and below ground.

8. Waikite Valley Thermal Pools Off Highway 5 between Rotorua and Taupo you’ll find a secluded and relaxed resort to soak all your troubles away! Waikite Valley offers campervan parking or tent sites which allow you unlimited use of all the hot pools, a humble kitchen, showers, and on-site cafe. A little trail leads the way to view Te Manaroa Spring, New Zealand’s largest source of natural boiling geothermal water. This feeds the river of Otamakokore which is 98 degrees Celsius! The Calcite mineral waters are remarkably soothing with no sulphur.

9. Tongariro Alpine Crossing: This major New Zealand highlight was SO worth the significant effort required. The ridiculously dramatic scenery was all-the-more sweet because it had to be “earned.” I will say that “20 K in a day” is a challenge on any terrain, let alone crossing high-alpine mountain peaks, so be sure you’ve done some recent hiking at altitude before tackling “Mt. Doom!” The steep trail ascends between Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe, with craters and volcanic cones along the way. It was undoubtedly worth every step. Arriving at high-alpine lakes glittering in varying shades of blue truly takes your breath away. The second half of the day is swooping downhill switchbacks. We used the Mountain Shuttle company which takes you to the start of the trail at Mangatepopo. You leave your car waiting for you in their private car park at the Ketatahi trailhead so you can leave right from there at the end of the day. Gourmet Reward: High Tea at Chateau Tongariro did the trick!

10. Matiu-Somes Island: We took a ferry from Wellington’s Queen Wharf for a day hike and picnic at the protected island of Matiu-Somes. It was a stunning sunny day, but alas we didn’t see any of the animals we had hoped for on this this Scientific Reserve apart from some lovely Red-crowned Parakeets and Oystercatcher birds. The more elusive Little Penguins (or Korora) are the world’s smallest penguins. They were in their molting season, which only lasts about two weeks. Additionally, the nocturnal Tuatara is from an ancient order of reptiles and have no other living relatives. Overnight stays are possible through the Department of Conservation, and night viewing of these rare animals is said to be the way to go. Good luck!

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Rain, Snow, or Shine: Day Hiking Nikko, Japan

NZ North Island: 10 Top Spots in Two Weeks

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